Portloe – Pilchards, Port and Coastal Paths
Untouched, undeveloped and bursting with clandestine antiquity and charm. Once famous for its pilchards Portloe, just by Veryan Bay, is now a destination for those looking for beguiling beauty and proper Cornish fodder. Park in the Church car park and prepare to feel a little like Gulliver on his travels.
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Crab & Lobster
The Beach & Harbour
The harbour, though once a furiously busy fishing harbour, pilchards mainly due to the sheltered nature of the ancient cove, is now much quiter on the trade front and specialises mainly in crab and lobster. At low tide Portloe houses a shingle beach where one who is determined might go winkling.
Though I would recommend haranguing the local fishermen on the harbour for their fresh lobster and crab, The Ship Inn does a mean glass of port – perfect after a long coastal walk. They serve proper pub grub at lunch time and dinner time. The Lugger is also a place to go for food, a 17th century inn with a colourful heritage. One of the old Innkeepers, Black Dunstan was hanged in the 1890’s for smuggling – presumably French Brandy… Mouth-watering Portloe crab and charming wines can be found as well a piscatorial lover’s treasure trove of a menu. The Lugger also has a spa, so certainly worth a little visit for some much deserved ‘me’ time. Opposite the church is a tiny post office – which not only deals in Her Maj’s postal service – but also serves cream teas and other basic necessities.
The Roseland Peninsula is the place in Cornwall to go coastal walking. Starting at Portloe you can choose to go left along to Porthholland and Caerhays Castle or right to Portscatho via Nare head and Pendower beach. Both are perfect for dog walking and the beaches are dog friendly.
Where to Stay
Portloe is a fabulous base to start from. The Blue House is the place to stay for self-catering. Situated right in the heart of the cove overlooking the harbour and out over to St Anthony’s Head and being somewhat a Farrow & Ball haven.