Times:
Smugglers on the Roseland
Taking your Nan out for lunch is something that can be tricky. I find I stick to known favourites, but would love to take her somewhere new and special. She cannot walk too far, wants something nice to look at (other than me of course), and it must have an ‘indoors’ as she feels the cold. Cue Smugglers at Tolverne.
Smugglers and The Tea Bar is part of the Tregothnan estate. An estate boasting 40 hectares of ‘gardens’ on the Roseland with superlative views of the river Fal.
We went across from Trelissick on the King Harry Ferry (£8 for a car return) and drove right down to Tolverne (a fairytale architectural splendour – dating back to the 15th century- in the shape of a thatched cottage) proffering a little outside tea bar home of the only tea grown in England. It was such a beautiful day that we chose a spot on a pretty green picnic bench right in front of the river. Our afternoon lunch consisted of two classic cream teas (two x hot fresh scones, Kea Plum Jam, and Rodda’s clotted cream and a pot of fragrant internationally renowned tea) with two scrumptious looking paninis con salad. We munched our way through a decadent and fantastically English afternoon tea by the river watching a last boat drift pass, and appreciating the wonderful fresh air. We then moved inside the tea bar (a little marquee) because DH was getting a chilly and had more tea (lemon verbena) and ice cream. It was a thoroughly tranquil and delightful afternoon.
Tregothnan, Cornish for ‘house at the head of the valley’, is a rich working estate that dates back to the Plantagenets. Much of the estate is still private, though the gardens which not only house the tea plants, manuka honey and Kea plums but also rare and ancient plants, opens once a year for charity. The beautiful house is visible from the Smugglers restaurant and adds a certain aristocratic air to the paninis.
Travelling to Smugglers:
If you are without a Nan, or if your own Nan is a rambler, then walk from Trelissick Gardens and travel as a passenger on the ferry (for free) to Tolverne; a spectacular walk where a boozy cream tea break will be well deserved.
“Patrons invited to moor at our extensive private pontoons:” how utterly grandiose. In fact when I found that statement on their website I felt a flutter of excitement. One of the loveliest aspects of Cornwall is that one can sail, paddle or speed to delightful eateries on the water. It gives a somewhat saltier Venetian air.
For my afternoon with DH and my great aunt and uncle it was a perfect venue with food to amuse and tempt us all. We browsed our way through the different varieties of tea on sale and thoroughly enjoyed the whole affair. A grand day out, and I am adding it to our list of places to take The Nan.
