Times:
The art of ‘Untitled’ by Robert Wright
‘Untitled’ normally describes a work of art that an artist may feel reluctant to categorise or name for any number of reasons. For a restaurant and a chef, it is a bold move but then chef Robert Wright at Untitled is a bold man. His motto: “real food for real people.”
Robert’s portfolio is vast and most notably includes head chef at the massively popular Gurnard’s Head in Zennor, Fifteen London, Cranks, Odette’s Notting Hill, Keith Floyd’s Malsters Inn and many more. The result is an unpretentious professional dining experience, capable of fusing the best of local and the best of continental with flair and appropriately, artistry. Flavours are distinct, clean, confident.
On a return journey from The Minack, we were sun warmed and peckish on reaching Penzance. From twinkling turquoise waters and white sand (plus basking shark), the atmospheric cloister-like arches of the Untitled Lounge and bold primary colours against a white canvas, provided a suitably continental echo. Tapas and drinks are served downstairs in the Untitled Lounge (no reservations) where you can indulge in dishes such as chorizo in red wine, octopus, tortilla with goat’s cheese or Helford oysters. Upstairs, dining is more formal: a light-filled room with views out to the harbour and the sea beyond, decked out in bold prints and eclectic objects.
Bottoms seated, menus in hand and drinks poured, we were ready. For starters, MM (also of the GCG), opted for Falmouth Bay scallops with black pudding, broad beans, thyme and cream; myself, the devilled lambs’ kidneys (I can’t resist a bit of offal). Delicious heart-shaped organs on crisp toast with just the right amount of devil for my liking and sweet fat scallops atop generous chunks of black pudding made for an inspiring start.
For the main show, we had difficulty choosing. In the end MM went for the Megrim sole with crab butter, new pots and spring greens. I chose the pork braised in milk with red cabbage, carrot, fondant potato and wild garlic. The plate-sized megrim was succulent and tasty, the crab butter adding a luxurious richness. The pork fell apart at the touch of a fork and the veg combination was spot on. My only complaint would be that portions were big and I hate to leave food but couldn’t finish the shoulder. Saying that, I wasn’t about to turn down a dessert.
Robert’s partner, Helen, runs the Newlyn cheese shop and clearly has a hand in the British cheese board as a dessert option. A stunning collection of cheeses were being wheeled around as we left and I loitered briefly to hear her speak knowledgeably about each one. Getting back to the sweet stuff however, as a keen forager and wild foodie, the elderflower fritters with Cornish strawberries and vanilla cream were a must for me and MM selected crème caramel with cinnamon biscuit.
My luck was in, MM (not a custard lover) wasn’t keen on the texture of her crème caramel, so I very generously finished off the wobbly, perfectly caramelised little tower after my fritters. The fritters. They were my first and I won’t forget them. Greasy, crisp, light bunches of scented delight, the delicacy of the flowers reaching through the batter embracing the cream and strawberries. I was delighted and felt that my taste buds had had a new experience. To wash them down, a glass of Tokaji Aszu, Blue Label from Hungary, which teetered tantalisingly between fruity sweetness and dramatic acidity. The ideal companion.
Service was professional and low-key with a smile. There is something different about dining at Untitled: an intimacy and a passion for good food in an artistic space and a menu that is brief (hurrah), simple and locally European. Much of the new ‘British revival’ food has become over- complicated and rich, a little too much for my palate at times. Robert Wright is confidently manoeuvring British food in his own direction. And it works. Long may he defy the constraints of food fashion and continue to forge his own foodie pathway by remaining ‘Untitled.’
