The Harbour: Port Isaac
You’d be forgiven for thinking you had slipped on to the set of Doc Martin. Strolling down the cobbled streets of Port Isaac a warm July evening, the sun setting over the harbour, sea shanties in full swing on the quayside, we rock up outside quite the prettiest (and oldest) building in the village.
The Harbour Restaurant, formerly two fisherman’s cottages, dates back to the 15th century, yet its contemporary palate of whites and greys combine perfectly with higgledy piggledy beams and wonky walls. The tiny restaurant lacks symmetry but lavishes character.
Stepping inside, head chef and owner (and mother of three to boot) Emily Scott has transformed the former fish and chip establishment into a seaside chic bistro. Effortlessly elegant: white wicker chairs tuck under oak tables, Hooper & Shaw prints don the walls, oversized seashells have subtly become wall lights. Front of house and business partner, Jason Brain (ex Fifteen Cornwall) shows us to our table. We would have enjoyed fabulous views if a large crowd hadn’t gathered to enjoy the silver band. Spirits were high and the soundtrack was an added bonus.
Mrs W, my date, and me, delighted in our simple supper menu. A handful of starters and mains and yet decisions were hard: Port Isaac crab cakes (£10.50) or scallops with lemon, parsley and garlic (£9.50)? If Mrs W had The Harbour fish stew (£17), then would she consider sharing a forkful of my monkfish with saffron cream and lemon mash (£18.50) perhaps? To make matters more difficult, Jason then adds to the decision making dilemma some delectable sounding specials, including a spiced butternut squash soup with Ticklemore topped crouton.
Service was super slick and far from seaside shabby. Supping chilled glasses of a deliciously fruity Italian (£5.90 a glass) Mrs W and I tucked into the most delectable bucket of homemade breads heavily laced with herbs and rock salt. Chatting and dipping into bowls of peppery olive oil, Jason tells us all bread is baked daily in the kitchen by a girl from the village.
Emily sources as much as she can locally, and our mains stood firm testament. Bountiful bowls full of locally caught monkfish in creamy saffron; a distinctly South of France feeling to the fish stew. Emily trained in France and this is more than evident with some of her fabulous dishes. Notably continental are the patisserie pastry perfect puddings: to make a treacle tart ‘fluffy’ is a real skill. How do French women stay so thin? Perhaps they leave the dollop of Cornish clotted cream on the side, we didn’t.
Supper at The Harbour, Port Isaac is perfect for:
• Locally caught fish dishes with a French bistro feel
• Glorious sunsets over Port Isaac harbour (weather and crowds permitting)
• Quite the prettiest bijoux restaurant in Cornwall (the loo really is in a cupboard)
• A perfect spot for listening to the fabulous Fisherman’s Friends who perform every Friday night on the quayside
